Two of my favorite people, Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura, have finished their internship programs at Fleisher’s and are moving to Los Angeles to open their own sustainable butcher shop. In the next few weeks they are signing the lease on their building, getting married legally in Connecticut, driving across the country, having a wedding ceremony on the west coast, and opening their new shop, Lindy & Grundy’s Meats. I will miss them, but it is California’s gain.
Check out Amy Scattergood’s post on the LA Weekly blog (with more photos of Erika & Amelia).
Hot off the press: A cookbook published by the Kripalu Center for Yoga & Health – the largest center of its kind in the United States and located in the rolling hills of the Berkshires. I photographed the dishes, executive chef Deb Morgan and helpers cooked, Jessica Bard styled, and it was overseen by Kripalu creative director Elena Erber. May the recipes inspire clean eating everywhere.
For a recent issue of Edible Hudson Valley, writer Lee Bernstein and I visited New York’s medium security Fishkill Correctional Facility for a tour of the kitchen, messhall, and food storage rooms. No food is actually cooked on the premises – it is prepared off-site, trucked in, and the packaged contents are heated in large stainless steel tubs and served by inmate staff. Meal names are often glamorized (“creamy chicken dinner” consists of bagged chunks of soy protein mixed with bagged white powder, plus water). For the full story see the Summer 2010 issue of Edible Hudson Valley.
The Elephant Wine & Tapas Bar, in Kingston, NY, is located directly across the street from Fleisher’s Grass-Fed & Organic Meats. This is convenient as that is where chef Rich Reeve sources much of the meat on his menu. He buys the inexpensive cuts and turns them into adventurous tapas dishes. The menu changes regularly, but one night’s offering included beef heart tacos, lamb sliders, “porchetta” roulade, Basque style bbq lamb ribs, and crispy blood sausage. I spent an evening speaking to and photographing chef Reeve and will make a complete post later, but for now, one of my favorite dishes of the evening, bone marrow:
One part mother starter, one part 00 flour, five parts resting time… writer Oliver Strand cooked 200 pizzas and rediscovered the beauty of long-rise pizza dough for an article in the New York Times. I photographed the comparison. Here is the full article, and here is a recipe for Radicchio Pizza with Gremolata… so good.
On Prince Edward Island, Canada, oysters are harvested today much as they were 100 years ago. Oyster farmers float above oyster beds in dories, and they use long forked tongs to collect the shellfish from the red sandy bottom below. On board, they sort the oysters by shape and size, and pack them into crates. Here is a glimpse into one oyster fisherman’s morning on the sea, when the spring season opened this May.
Kendra McKnight, of Magpie Kitchen, introduced me to mackerel ceviche. It was a refreshing homecoming after a week of butter-dipped lobsters and clams, cheese-baked oysters, and cream-based mussel chowder on Prince Edward Island. I borrowed her recipe and lime-cured a version.
After a week-long journey – by train – to Prince Edward Island, Canada, to photograph oyster, mussel, and lobster fishermen with the chefs and writer of the Joe Beef cookbook, I stayed with friends Kendra & Joost in Montreal.
Kendra just finished a two year stint at a culinary school and she has been cooking private parties around Montreal and styling food for magazines and newspapers. We photographed the food she cooked for us to eat. For this rhubarb tart recipe visit Magpie Kitchen
Maya Kaimal launched her eponymous Fine Indian Foods line after coworkers raved about the sumptuous feasts she cooked for them. You can find Maya Kaimal Fine Indian Foods products in over 1000 stores across the country: Whole Foods Market carries the sauces, as do gourmet and specialty shops. We photographed a selection of dishes the home-cook can easily prepare at home.
All of Maya’s sauces are delicious combined with almost any combination of vegetable or protein. Here is one idea:
1 ½ lb extra large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup Maya Kaimal Tamarind Curry
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional)
2 tablespoons sliced scallions (optional)
Indian Naan or other flatbread (optional)
1. Pre-heat grill to medium.
2. Toss shrimp with ½ cup of Tamarind Curry. Thread shrimp onto 8 skewers.
3. Place kebabs on grill and cook for 2 minutes on the first side. Turn the kebabs over and baste with some of the remaining Tamarind Curry. Continue grilling and basting the kebabs until the shrimp are cooked through, a few minutes more.
4. If you like, garnish kebabs with the cilantro and scallions and serve with grilled naan or other flatbread.
While wandering around Rhinebeck, NY, shooting a story on the town, I visited the Blue Cashew Kitchen Pharmacy. The staff was squeezing limes for the mojitos they were preparing for the annual Taste of Rhinebeck event that night. This shot probably doesn’t sum up Rhinebeck enough to make it into the magazine, but it is a reminder that summer is on the way.
In April 2010 Fleisher’s Grass-fed & Organic Meats hosted a full-day class in butchery. Students observed master butcher Hans Sebold slaughter a locally-raised heritage pig at a family-owned farm in Stone Ridge, NY. Back at the shop, Joshua Applestone and Thomas Schneller, master butcher and CIA instructor, led demonstrations in pig butchery, sausage-making, and curing charcuterie.
I am not including the more graphic of my photos, but if you are sensitive you may want to skip this one.
At Mint Premium Foods in Tarrytown, NY you may trip when reaching for an obscure food product on the haphazardly stacked shelves, but it might be worth the risk for all the fine cheese you will sample while tending your bruise. Shot for the Spring 2010 issue of Edible Hudson Valley.
In March, 2010, Joshua Applestone of Fleisher’s Grass-fed & Organic Meats in Kingston, NY and Tom Mylan of The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, took a group of butchers and friends-of-butchers on a late-night tour through Williamsburg. The annual event is known as the Butcher Blackout.
I was asked to visit a rabbit farm to photograph a rabbit for the front page of the New York Times’s Dining section. Of course, I gave them a bunch of options. Here is the one that ran, and if you click through you will see more of the Dining editor’s favorites on the NYT Blog. You will also read a lot of irate comments from readers. People canceled subscriptions they were so angry about this story. To paraphrase a poster with a different attitude, ‘It seems it’s only edible if it’s not cute.’
New York Times bestselling author of The $64 Tomato William Alexander baked one loaf of peasant bread per week for a year in his quest to get the perfect crust and the perfect crumb. His new book, 52 Loaves, will be published in May, 2010. He describes the quest below in this audio slide show.
I hosted a holiday dinner party for 12 friends who love food. One friend makes his own sausages and grills pizzas in the wood-fired oven he built in his backyard, other friends work at such publications as New York magazine, or write about food for the New York Times, or are the editor of the Hudson Valley’s Chronogram magazine, and one friend just likes to open restaurants. Of course, the thought of cooking for such a crowd made me shiver.
That’s where Chef David Matthew Lydick, executive chef of Revolution Cuisine stepped in. He and his sous chef shopped for and cooked a 12 course dinner for us, while the rest of us made our way through two cases of wines. It was an unforgettable evening of extravagance. Thank you, Chef Dave.
The full menu:
coconut chicken satay on banana bread muffin
macaroni and kunik goat cheese bites
Catskill venison carppacio local baby arugula roasted shallot and grape relish garlic croustini
carrot pea raisin cilantro lime raw kale and lemon garlic fresh grilled vegetable caponata
pigs in a bacon blanket inside out smore
Swiss chard gratin local baby arugula walnut black olive pesto
pan seared cape diver scallop apple nut salad peanut vinaigrette